I know that you are mostly interested in the trolls.  I am so lucky to be surrounded by real Icelandic people who can really give some background on them!  Everywhere you look in Reykjavic, there are reference to these creatures who spend so much time under ground.  I wanted to share with you some more that I have learned today.

So, trolls are VERY real!  There isn't an Icelander who would say differently.  Icelanders are very spiritual people - they almost embrace all thoughts, religious and mystical beliefs.  One of our tour guides explained that when a person is sick, the family will (of course) go to a doctor.  However, they will also visit people who have "the gift" or magical, spiritual insight and powers.  The people of Iceland have an approach that it can't do any harm to combine the science and mystic power of nature. 

Wherever you go, you will always see these giant white cylinders in fields, along mountainsides, etc.  One of my traveling companions asked about them.  We had a different tour guide who explained that trolls really love marshmallows!  These giant treats are left for the trolls to eat.  I guess you would want to keep a troll happy!  There were light green ones as well.  When asked, we were told that they were mint flavored!  Who knew?!?

I haven't talked about the Reykjavik style but it is pretty cool!  Many of the fashion items for sale are hand made.  It is really nice to shop and know that there is someone there who took the time to make the items with their own hands.  Most of the time, it has something to do with nature and being aware of the world we live in.  One of the "standard" fashion statements are Icelandic sweaters.  They are NOT cheap.  Mr. S. has been looking at many of the different options this whole trip.  Some are not made as well as others.  And, there is a jump in price for the better made sweaters.  Part of me things that the design of the sweaters is inspired by the mountaintops where there are often wedges of white snow between the sharp cliffs of rock.  Mr. S. bought a sweater!  Yay!

There are many photos that I have to share with out. Iceland is so beautiful - full of buildings with every color you can imagine.  I know I shared this with you in a previous post.  However, it goes without saying that it makes taking photos easy when you have the natural background of hardened volcanic seas and clouds dancing in the skies.

This was a first for Mr. S.  We were brought to an "open air" museum.  The purpose of this museum is to collect/conserve cultural objects from the settlement times of Reykjavik to present.  Houses at this museum crossed many time periods.  Some had live roofs with grass growing!  There were chickens, lambs and so much history at this museum.  You could almost imagine how people lived back hundreds of years ago.

Okay, Mr. S. has to tell you some truth!  I appreciate ALL that Iceland has to offer.  However, this museum is a REAL snoozer.  Our guide, Earling, was not allowed to talk.  Pictures were not allowed to be taken.  Frankly, the context of this history was limited for Mr. S.  I am borrowing some images to show here.  However, you can skip this one when you visit Iceland.  Or visit:  National Museum of Iceland for more information.

Our last museum was down right freaky!  So, there is a rich history of struggle, fighting, social climbing and brutality in the early years of Iceland.  They have come a long way!  This museum has LIFE SIZED sculptures of hundreds of years of history of Iceland.  They give you a headset so you can listen to the recordings of the historical narratives.  The people LOOK ALIVE and VERY REAL. They even were tricky and have some of them move just a little bit - so the realness even makes you more uncomfortable.  The museum is not for the weak of heart.  While I can't say it is "adult" in nature, they really do capture of harsh realities of life so many years ago. A parent might need to help a child walk through this museum. To the right is a video giving you a glimpse of the museum. 

Parents, please view the video before your child to make sure it doesn't have anything you don't care for them to see. Kids, ASK MOM OR DAD FIRST!

So, you can have an Icelandic Troll

Or you can have a fairy....

We then were brought over on zodiac to a coastal landing spot where a path lead to Dynjandi Waterfalls.  This was not a planned stop but as our expedition leader said, "You must always have Plan A, Plan B and Plan C."  We never found out which plan this was.

Walking up to the falls, the main deluge looked small so far way.  You could hear the thundering rush of water as it plummeted to the earth.  Every step took you to a new kind of life.  Pops of colors - lilac, royal blue and yellow dotted the pathway. 

Along the shore, each step allowed you a reminder that you were on a volcanic island.  The shore had black, crunchy sand that snap, crackled and popped with each step.  Strewn along the cost was various kinds of seaweed laying about.  The local artesians use this to make various crafts like necklaces, beads and belts.  It was so neat to see the live beginning of what could end up in one of the many shops in the main city.

Eventually, the path made its way from the beach to numerous steps - each foot movement was like a clod of an Icelandic horse.  I can't say that I was moving as fast or effortlessly as those beautiful beasts.  :) 

To some, the trek up to the falls would have seemed easy.  Mr. S. felt like he was getting officially old!  While the hike didn't seem exceptionally long, it was steep and up and up and up and up it went!  I wasn't too concerned with taking a moment to let someone stop to pass by or helping someone who needed a hand to come down.  A moment for a breathe meant that I could enjoy the spender of the falls and mountainside.  Each step brought me a little closer to this beauty; that was motivation enough. I honestly was tired looking back at the videos!

The morning began with the National Geographic Explorer cruising past Iceland’s impressive Latrabjarg Cliffs.  The rocky formation rises out of the water – surely one of God’s most impressive natural sculptures spanning 14 kilometers long.  Here we were on the western-most part of Iceland, which is also one of Europe’s largest bird cliffs.  Our naturalists told fantastic stories of how the people of the past used to climb down the ropes of these cliffs to gather eggs; sometimes there were accidents that resulted in terrible injuries or even death! The people of this area relied on the eggs and birds as a major part of their diet – sometimes as many as 40,000 eggs and 36,000 birds were taken!  Now, that is a lot of scrambled eggs!

Today was also a first for Mr. S. as we made our way to a “dry” landing upon Flatey Island.  The zodiac brought us right upon a white, metal floating dock that is kept on the Explorer.  The zodiac’s nose nestled right into the opening of the floating contraption that allowed us to walk right up on the shore!

Flatey Island is one of the largest of the thousands of islands here.  Large is not exactly a good word because the island has one road and maybe 20 colorful houses that are disconnected from the electronic world that we know.  I took the option of going on a photographic walk learning from one of the National Geographic photographers.  There is one small church and the tiniest library you have ever seen next to it.  The sky was a soft blue with cotton candy-like clouds whisping above.  We walked along the road to the cliffs and waited patiently for puffins!  I was so excited to be able to snap a few pictures of them.  They really feel like flying penguins even though they are not related.  They move quickly and zip back and forth from their protected nests in the jagged rocks out to see to get a snack.  The fish is so good in Iceland; I can see why they like it!

This voyage is particularly special because National Geographic has made a point to bring a rich cultural enhancement on this expedition.  Tonight, we were blessed to have a variety of musical performances by local Icelandic musicians.  Mostly singing in Icelandic, the musicians sang about life, nature and love.  The various stylizations were powerful and you could see the pure love of music on the faces of the performers as they played.  The sounds blended into hypnotic melodies often sending chills on the back of my neck; it was impressive.  Their songs told stories of sadness or joy. All of them had a deeply profound connection to the planet.  It was a wonderful treat to see people who thrive and are energized by their artistic creations in music.  Video will follow when I am back to regular internet.  For now, I hope you are enjoying my stories from the North part of the world!

Here are two of the Icelandic performers that were brought to the ship.  In the beginning, the musician talks a little about them and then goes into their song.  It is magical! Enjoy!

Today we were able to get a little later start in the morning!  Much rest has been really needed because every day is packed with so much to see, do and experience.  I have to remark that fish and lamb is the center of almost all of the meals here.  I prefer the fish and it is by far the best I have ever had.  Cod, salmon and shellfish… you name it!  Every bite seems like the fish was caught an hour before! 

Our walking tour took us through the heart of Reykjavik where we visited many of the old, established streets and buildings from centuries ago.  Everywhere you look, there are corrugated steel buildings all painted in beautiful colors – purple lilac, soft yellows and bright oranges are some of the many colors you will see.  Our tour guide explained that in the winter, Iceland gets very little sunlight.  The Icelandic people use the colors to keep them cheered up.  Our tour guide also explained that she even has been known to decorate her house with pineapples and palm trees in the winter to help keep her spirits bright, lively and silly.  It sounds like something Mr. S. would do!

We were brought to many famous locations of historic significance.  One of them is the main Lutheran Church that is the primary symbol of the town.  The front of it has graduated columns on each side shooting to the heavens above.  When you enter, the church, while very grand and big, the vista is of simple elegance.  White walls and interior architectural lines lifting higher and higher, there isn’t the usual décor of a church.  You are able to appreciate the melodic Icelandic organ music and appreciate the purpose of Iceland’s most noted places of worship. 

We came to many local artesian shops where the Icelandic sense of design was ever present.  Iceland is known for blending nature into their artistic inspiration.  So, it isn’t surprising when you hold up an amazing pair of salmon skin boots – of the trendiest design.  Or, you might pick up a beautiful green beaded necklace made from local seaweed.  Even picking up a coffee mug will have touches of leaf imprints and finger groves to make holding your coffee that much easier, pleasant and fun. 

So, Mr. S. has NEVER even touched a horse before.  Several of the guests encouraged me to try this one out.  I admit I was nervous.  The stables make their riders watch a video explaining 100 things to do and not to do when riding a horse.  I told them that I was EXTRA new to these animals; they picked my horse very carefully to me.  Finally, when I was introduced to my horse, I learned that her name was Gangster.  Yikes!  I thought I was in for some real trouble.  The girl running the stable insisted that I shouldn’t worry and that Gangster was a loving, gentle horse who listens quite well. 

It was true.  After getting up on Gangster, we were soon off.  The sound of the horse feet made a rhythmic sound that almost put you in a trance-like state.  It was then that I could totally take in the incredible scenery of our trail.  Our path first took us through alpine pine trees with snow-capped mountains in the distance.  The air was crisp and sweet – like a granny smith apple you just took out of the refrigerator.  The path then brought us through rolling lava fields; this was an especially wonderful treat!  We have seen many of these fields from our buses.  However, it felt like we were really one with nature having a horse below us, and the beautiful world of Iceland really coming alive!  Our ride was fun – and we were even able to take our horses up to several different speeds… fast, slow and then galloping again!  Gangster was beyond sweet and knew what to do the entire time.  I loved every second of it!

Mr. S. riding horses in Iceland!

After our horseback riding, I was then brought back to the National Geographic Explorer!  This was an almost emotional experience for Mr. S.  This is the same ship that brought me to Antarctica.  Now, I am lucky enough to return to it to visit Iceland!  Even more remarkable was the staff aboard.  I can’t tell you how many people remembered me and from down the hall said, “Oh my goodness, Mr. Tom… how are you?”  Such a wonderful experience to be back and see many people who are dear to my heart. 

Our morning began with a stop at the famous Thingvellir National Park.  We were brought through another deep ravine again that separates the Eurasian and American tectonic plates by Earling.  He is amazing to listen to tell stories and welcomes all kinds of questions about Iceland. 

Our next steps brought us to the famous Gulfoss Falls in Iceland.  A very wise guest made note that we should not compare spectacles to other things we know – merely, we should appreciate them for their individual beauty.  Earling was very quick to let all of us know that there were 108 steps to the lower level of the falls.  As we made our way to the top viewing area, you could hear the roar of the water creating a mystical song.  We made our way first cross the top taking in the beauty of the rocks where the walk was easy and calm.  Earling then brought us down the 108 steps. What he neglected to tell us was that there was a pretty intense incline walking DOWN to the lower level.  What goes down must come up!  And, Mr. S. enjoyed the lower level waterfalls only to see Early and his 76 year-old self outpace Mr. S. back to the bus.

We then were brought to the host springs of Geysir.  Whenever you hear about a geysir on the planet, it is in reference to the place we visited.  The hot springs were different than the day before.  The smelly rotten egg smell of the bubbling waters were not present – however there were more of them.  Little signs were littered around the grounds with protective ropes keeping you safe.  I walked up slowly to the “main” geysir that regularly exploded into the air.  With each step, I say the bubbles starting to build and bubble.  Suddenly, a giant plume of water shot up over 100 feet into the air.  The crowd “oohhed and awed” as the water came falling down ot the ground like a rainstorm.  Of course, Mr. S. had to position himself in the direction of the wind for the next eruption of water!  It was exciting and fun!

Tonight was a spectacular night – once in a lifetime.  Our group were blessed to be on a charted boat to a remote Icelandic Island where dinner was to be served to us in a house dating back a 1000 years!  The salmon and cod were equally prepared with the utmost of care where each morsel melted in your mouth accompanied by expertly chosen herbs and seasoning by the master chef brought in for this special occasion.  Additionally, Icelandic musicians were brought to perform both traditional and contemporary music of this beautiful county.  The lead vocalist had a siren-like voice that possessed both strength and delicate tones bringing the ambiance of Iceland unlike any I have ever experienced.  To top it off, there was a special memorial to John Lennon (lead singer of the Beatles) brought to the island by his wife, Yoko Ono (ask your parents about this one).  While my photographs are of a white cylinder, the memorial becomes a light sculpture during historically significant times of John Lennon’s life.  The ultimate message of the “light sculpture” is one of peace and unity.  I wish that I could be there when the cylinder is shooting a light show into the night’s sky.  What a memorable evening.  The final photo was shot as I walked home from the boat that brought  us back from the island.  The evening sky never dims during this time of the year offering many incredible reflections of the boats in the harbor.

Our morning started very early with a bus tour that lasted the majority of the day.  We were met by our tour guide, Earling. He is a pretty remarkable Icelander who has lived all over the world - London, Thailand, U.S..... you name it.  He talked about the history, culture and geography of Iceland.  Check out information on plate tectonics. Or, look here to learn more about geothermal energy.  Iceland is truly green; I don't mean the colors! They use the volcanic energy from beneath the surface of the earth to heat their homes and even their sidewalks! 

To the right is a video of Earling giving us the explanation of how the lava got its name.

Our trip brought us down winding roads of lava fields that once were molten hot, spewing forth from the mantel below.  Centuries later we learn that these rolling hills, while cool and hard for a long time, show little signs of erosion.  Soil does not develop; without that, it is hard for trees and larger plant life too take root.  The result is still amazing - mounds and mounds of once churning earth now covered in green moss of every green you can name - mint, Christmas, evergreen... you name it.  The result is pure beauty. Earling explained that this kind of lava flow is the same as Hawaii.  It is called "ah-ah" lava.

We then made our way to Garoskagi Lighthouse.  This first stop was a nice next after about a 40 minute drive.  The air was cool and crisp.  There wasn't a sound to be heard - the waters were still with few birds in the sky.  There were many gulls in the distance taking a morning rest in the seaweed at the end of the shore.  In the middle of this peacefulness stood an old lighthouse rising from the ground providing a little reminder of what Iceland was like 100 years ago or so. 

I came back to the American continent for a few minutes!  Seriously folks! Our bus took a quick stop for our group to go and walk IN the place where Iceland is being ripped apart a few centimeters a year.  One side is the Eurasian continental plate and the other is the America plate holding North America!  The ravine was filled with a black fine sand that made me think back to my days in Antarctica slippy and sliding with every step.  What an experience to travel back and forth - for free! I am so glad I didn't get swallowed up and fall to the center of the earth!

Our next treat for the day was stop at the Hot Springs of Seltun/Krysuvik. Earling must have told us to NOT even think of getting off the path to see if the water was hot - it is!  As we walked up to the pathways, you suddenly were faced with this thick smell of rotten eggs.  There weren't any chickens.  It was the sulfur mixed with the vaporous steam coming out of the ground.  Walking further brought you to wooden planks that allowed you an overlooking view into the "bog of hot, smelly, bubbling stench.  Many people had to cover their noses as they made their way.  To the skin, you could feel the heat being released into the air.  Low sounds of percolating bubbles could be heard if you stood absolutely still.  Various mists of noxious fumes blew in the wind.  It was spectacular, beautiful and exceptionally stinky! 

Above are the bubbling, smelly fields.  Beautiful, but stinky!

First bubbling fields I came across. 

Earling was in a bit of a hurry at this part of the journey.  We had lunch reservations and apparently dilly-dallied far too long and were an hour behind! We had to stop at "The Pearl" which is one of the plants that takes the heat from well below the earth's crust, brings it up and uses the steam to heat almost EVERYTHING.  It was remarkable to hear Earling explain how they even have outdoor heated pools in the winter.  They also don't have to ever shovel snow because they use this energy to melt the snow on the sidewalks. Going to The Pearl offered beautiful photos of Reykjavik.  The Pearl is called so because it has a mirror, rounded exterior - looking like a grey pearl shining in the sun. 

So, perhaps I was in denial or still basking in the glow of Antarctica but this was one HECK of a journey!  We started in Chicago at 4:30 and made our way without problem to New York City.  The flight was easy and calm.  In less than 2 hours, we were in the Big Apple waiting for our flight to Iceland leaving at 10 o'clock. 

After waiting and waiting, we finally were allowed to board our flight and off we were!  It was an overnight trip to Iceland.  I have to tell the truth.  Mr. S. was squished for the five hour flight the entire time.  Sleep did not happen at all.  We arrived in Keflavik, Iceland at 8 a.m. in the morning!  We arrived in Iceland hungry, VERY tired and honestly - cranky. 

Mr. S. had a bit of a problem.  He was tired, hungry, cranky.  AND, we had planned for my mom and I to take a bus straight from the airport to the famous Blue Lagoon.  The Blue Lagoon is known for being a geo-thermal place for people to go and bathe.  It is ACTUALLY blue!  We got there pretty quickly and were greeted by very friendly staff who walked us through the ropes.  My mom and I had paid for a premium package which meant we had a lovely fruit juice and lunch waiting for us!  We really had not had any food since the night before!  We made our way into the beautiful lagoon.  The waters were a crystal blue and you felt the immediate heat as your toes entered the water. This was in a complete contrast from the 50 degree temperature outside of the water so there was a mystical mist that rose over the waters. 

So, Mr. S. and his mom became very, very hungry!  It was almost unbearable. Luckily, we had a list of restaurants with many incredible suggestions. We decided to go to a restaurant by the name, "Steak House."  I had a terrible taste for beef - not just any beef but a hamburger made with premium grade Angus beef, topped with truffle oil and bone marrow.  Quite the delight.  However, it didn't begin there!  Mr. S. had WHALE.  Seriously, whale!  Baleen Whale was on the menu and while I had serious reservations, it was highly recommended by the waitress.  I thought it would taste like fish - wrong!  It was more "beefy" in texture and taste than anything else.  It had a Chipoltle jelly and Japanese fine crackers placed on top of it.  Mr. S.'s mom opted to have the Langoustine Fritters - those are balls of delicately fried dough around Icelandic lobster.  All of that was sitting above a bed of cream green, ginger, pesto sauce.  YUM!

After our delicious dinner, it was time to walk home.  We were amazed at the wonderful colors of this beautiful city bringing to life the culture of Iceland.  We have only just begun.  One of my favorite pictures was of a huge mural on the side of a building, reflecting itself giving its views a second glimpse of its beauty. 

Mr. S. then happened upon a polar bear sitting in the street and HAD to get a picture. Well, it wasn't a REAL polar bear.  While I do think they must come our Iceland, I don't think it is Polar Bear season!

And our FIRST troll sighting!  I didn't get to talk to him, but I cannot wait!  I can imagine how bad he must smell!  I hear that trolls can be very, very smelly, cranky and not nice.  Then, there are the nice ones!  Which one do you think he is?